The Perfect Interview Suit

Most men today hate wearing suits. There are two reasons for this. Many men grew up wearing jeans, t-shirts and running shoes. As such, any “dress” clothes seem uncomfortable to them. Secondly, men who wore “dress” clothes from time to time in their youth wore poorly constructed, poorly fitted suits, jackets and trousers made out of inexpensive materials. The perfect interview suit must fit right, be the correct color, the proper fabric and feel comfortable.

The Cut.

There are two acceptable cuts for men’s suits. These are the traditional European cut which is a bit fitted and the classic American cut which is looser and more boxy. Both cuts are available today in two or three-button jackets (never wear one or four buttons). The American suit is usually more traditional looking. The European suit is more fitted and looks tailored. While I like and wear double breasted suits, they are not appropriate for interviews – even with law firms or the State Department.

The Right Color.

There are two colors that are acceptable for men’s suits: dark blue and gray. The blue is navy blue. Grays in dark (or charcoal) and medium are fine. Light gray is questionable for interviews. The suits can be solid, pin stripe or chalk stripe. Regardless, they should look classic and muted – not like those worn by race track enthusiasts or mob bosses.

Fabric.

The best fabric is year round weight 100% wool. In the dead of winter heavier wool is acceptable. Summer weight wool or even poplin (dressy cotton) can be work in late June, July and August. A very small percentage of polyester is acceptable for strength. The fabric should not shine or have a patterned texture.

The Right (Comfortable) Fit.

For a man’s jacket to fit properly in must be the right size and cut. Also, it must be tailored to adjust it in various places. Try on suit jackets until you find one that is comfortable in the back, chest and shoulders with the top (if two button) or middle (if three button) button closed. The fingers should be able to just curl under the hem (bottom) of the jacket if it is the right length. You MUST wear a dress shirt to try on a suit jacket. A polo or tee-shirt will not do. If the jacket fits properly in the chest, shoulders and back (look at the 3-way mirror in the dressing room), now try on the trousers.

Trousers whether plain front or pleated front need to fit in the waist, crotch and the seat. The length will need to be tailored. If the pockets pull, the trousers are too small. If the pants droop much below the belly button, then the wait is too big. You need a dress belt and dress shoes to wear when trying on the suit trousers (not running shoes!). More on that below.

Tailoring.

The suit jacket should be tailored in several areas. The back should not have a bubble, wrinkle or hump. The collar (or "cape") and lapels should lie flat and not "wing out". The sleeves should EACH be measured from the tip of the thumb. Whether to show some cuff shows is a matter of personal taste. I prefer to show a little shirt cuff. Nothing else on the suit jacket should need to be tailored if it is the right size and cut.

The trousers must fit at the waist. Try them on with a dress belt. They also must fit at the seat. Try to sit in them unless you stand all day. They should not pull in the front. The length of the trousers is important. Dress shoes are necessary to get the proper fit. Running shoes or flip-flops are not to be worn when getting fitted for an interview suit. Some men prefer the trousers to just touch the top of the shoes with NO break (think of a dent in the front crease). This looks best with cuffs on the trousers. Some men like to have a slight break in the front of the trousers. This looks best with a plain hem and no cuffs. It is a matter of personal choice and style. Too big a break looks sloppy and says the suit is cheap or does not fit right.

After Tailoring.

After the tailoring is complete, try on the entire suit with a dress shirt and shoes again. Make sure it has been pressed. Try on the jacket and trousers. Look at them in the 3-way mirror. Then take off the jacket and look at the trousers front and back. If you see any wrinkles, bags or pulls or if the sleeves or legs are uneven have the tailor mark it again and have the suit sent back for additional adjustments. When trying it on again, remember the dress shirt and shoes too.

A properly tailored suit in the right cut, color and fabric when matched with a crisp dress shirt, a traditional patterned or striped tied, conservative belt and well-shined dress shoes project an image that says all the right things about the candidate at any interview. Confident, resume in hand, the rest is up to you!

George F. Franks, III is the founder and CEO of Franks Consulting Group - a Bethesda, Maryland based management consulting and leadership coaching practice. He is a member of the Institute of Management Consultants and the International Coach Federation. George can be reached at: gfranks@franksconsultinggroup.com Franks Consulting Group is on the web at: http://franksconsultinggroup.com George's weblog is: http://consultingandcoaching.blogspot.com