Hair
The very expensive haircut is crucial. For those who do not have enough hair to pull-off the expensive haircut – it all must go. No more comb-overs or even implants. The really powerful and the extremely rich just cut their own hair or go to the same corner barbershop they have gone to since they were kids.
Shirt
White shirt of a fine 100% cotton shirt. Straight collar. French cuffs with tiny – ideally antique – cuff links (1920s not 1950s). Preferably tailored in
Tie
Silk. The only acceptable material. Hermes and the other designers with fine silk, bright colors and very small and complex patterns or figures. Also acceptable is foulard in silk with small diamond or circle patterns in navy or maroon. Purple, yellow (its back) and pink are favored too. Sky blue has become a cliché for politicians and their underlings.
Stay away from green and brown. Black is for funerals. Regardless of what the fashion books say – the knot is a function of personal style – and where you went to boarding school (or which military branch you served in).
Belt
Does not matter. You will not be taking off your suit coat. And you will only unbutton it when you sit down. Period.
Shoes
If the higher the heel is the key to the power look for women, then the thinner the sole is the key to the power look for men. Italian and English shoes are best. The rule about laces is out unless you are a diplomat or an investment banker. Otherwise, tie shoes or slip-ons are fine. They must be expensive, black or brown (a whole other article about this trend) leather and very traditional in style. Any shoe that looks trendy, cheap or like a walking or athletic shoe is a no-no. And any shoe must be highly polished – regardless of whether they are new or 30 years old (yes I have some that old in case you are wondering – I have them cobbled).
Suit
The power suit is still it. No khakis and polo shirt – unless you are on the links. No sport coat and dress trousers – unless you are at a cocktail party or the yacht club. A suit. Preferably English. Preferably bespoke (if you do not know what that is then do a search on the term please). It should be navy solid or striped or very dark grey. It should be of very expensive and fine wool. And it should fit impeccably (that does not mean off-the-rack and adjust the cuffs and hem the trousers by the way). If you cannot afford this suit – then go to a very expensive men’s store and examine the most expensive traditional suits they sell. Try one on. Look at all the details. Short of a bespoke suit – this is what you are looking to duplicate regardless of where you choose to shop.
While the topics of belts, braces (you know – suspenders), socks, pocket squares, watches, spectacles, rings, pens and other accessories could go on for pages – the point is that unless you get the basics right (and above are the basics) then all the other things really don’t matter because you will not have the power look.
Female executives can have their expensive high heel shoes. You have your expensive haircut/shirt/tie/suit/shoes. Now it is time to get down to business. If you think the computer programmer who is worth more than most small countries has it made because he can wear an old rock band t-shirt, baggy shorts and ratty sneakers – then you do not need to worry about the men’s power look. You need to evaluate your professional goals.
George F. Franks, III is the President of Franks Consulting Group - a Bethesda, Maryland management consulting and leadership mentoring practice. George can be reached by e-mail at:
gfranks@franksconsultinggroup.com
Franks Consulting Group is on the web at:
